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I needed a router table in my workshop and decided the best way to achieve this was to build one into my work bench.

I have made one previously and I wanted to incorporate the lessons I learned from that into this one.

I need to achieve the following functions with this one:

  1. Accurate router bit height adjustment.
  2. Easy access to change router bits
  3. All controls need to be accessed easily
  4. It needed to reduce the noise of the router.
  5. It needed to be inexpensive to make
  6. It needed to be relatively simple to make (no complex joints or machining)

So after a bit of research I came up with this design and drew it up on Sketchup to see how it would work.

The hardest part of the design is creating a power transfer system to translate horizontal movement into vertical movement.

To achieve this I made a horizontal sliding frame with a 45 deg channel. This was mated to vertical sliding frame and a bearing transferred the horizontal movement into vertical movement.

The frames have to be strong enough to support the router solidly in use and transfer power from one plane to another.

The initial design called for two frames of similar construction, however I modified it as I went and made the vertical slide out of two of the off set routing bars that came with the router.

I decided to bolt the frames and slides together to allow disassembly during the build and for future servicing.

Simple skateboard bearings were used for the power transfer and work very smoothly.

The router cradle was made in two parts. Both parts were single pieces of timber with the router body holes cut out of them then sawn in two to create the clamp part of the cradle. The upper one has a clamping bolt which engages the metal slide to lock the router in place if required. Both parts were joined to the bearing mount.

The mounts were placed so the router would lift through the surface of the table to allow easy bit changing.

Enough travel was built into the lift so it would drop right out of the way when not in use to allow free use of the work bench above.

The sound proof box is made from 18mm MDF. It also houses the mounting brackets to hold the whole unit to the bench.

To be sound proof or at least reduce the decibel level it needs to have some mass to absorb sound waves and also be able to reflect them. The MDF provides the mass and rubber mat does the reflection here.

Its built to be a snug fit around the lift and router, the three sides and base are all glued and screwed into place. The inside has rubber mat glued to the centre of each panel using sound deadening glue. Being mounted in the centre of the panel it reduces drumming.

It only needed a 3/4 height door as the top part fits against the inside of my bench.

To mount the lift to the bench I decided to use three mounting brackets. You can see where there are placed in the pictures. By using a 3 point mounting system I can adjust the vertical axis of the router after its mounted to make sure its spot on. This allows for alignment errors in the build and mounting the router in the lift as well.

To reduce noise a bit further I added rubber strips at the mounting points to reduce vibration transfer.

To dismount the router lift I have to undo three machine bolts on the bench and then undo two bolts to lift it out of the soundproof box.

Total cost: – £43.00!
18mm MDF – £ 23.00
M8 Threaded Bar – £5.00
Planed Pine (70mm x 22mm) – £15.00
Everything else was surplus from other projects.